Is This Southeast Asia’s Craziest Train Journey?

Experience the bustling Maeklong Railway Market in Thailand, where a train journey turns into a unique spectacle, blending the thrill of rail travel with a vibrant, chaotic market atmosphere.

While the diesel motorcar operated by the State Railway of Thailand (SRT) may only take just a little over two hours to complete its journey, the last few minutes before it pulls into its Maeklong terminus certainly contribute to making it one of the world’s craziest train journeys.

Eager tourists start early in jockeying for positions to immortalise the train’s arrival on their mobile devices. Invariably, they get in the way of the stallholders relocating the trays of produce and wares they offer for sale, but in the true polite Thai way, everything is completed smoothly, efficiently, and with apparent due regard to everyone’s needs.

The intense tropical sunlight pours in as soon as the trackside awnings are raised. Tourists lining one side of the track become more anxious as the temperature rises and latecomers begin to obstruct their view. Things eventually settle down as the shrill of the train horn rises above the din of the several hundred eager tourists who will soon be in the thick of the action.

BEST SEAT IN THE HOUSE

Opportunistic café operators have installed mobile wooden benches, and being keen to photograph the train, I position myself against a column so that my space and vision aren’t obstructed. Despite my best efforts, mobile devices on selfie sticks soon pop above the bobbing throng; however, it’s all manageable without too much angst. Everyone is polite, but I imagined tensions fraying on some occasions. If photographs are important, my tip is to start making your plan early and get in the best position possible well before the train makes its entrance.

Within minutes, the train’s horn intensifies in pitch and frequency as it appears at the head of the market, some 100 m from my vantage point in front of Station Coffee and Smoothies. Staff move through the crowd to ensure they have all purchased a drink in return for their privileged positions on any of the outlet’s benches.

The awaiting crowd is as excited as the audience at a K-pop band concert. I briefly feel like calling out, “It’s just a train!” – but that surely would only fall on deaf ears; besides, I am excited, too, as the whole experience is greater than just the train itself. Indeed, this is a celebrated train, without equal in terms of passenger enthusiasm and general market mayhem that is so typical in many parts of Thailand.

I watch the driver as he brings the iron beast through the jubilant throng and I quietly wonder what would happen should someone err or be jostled onto the track. With my camera whirring in overdrive, the driver’s cabin is upon me within seconds, and I reach out and enthusiastically high-five him. Despite having driven the route many times, he still looks as excited as if it were his first day on the job.

Exuberant passengers on the train are hanging out the open-shuttered windows, and they are just as boisterous and engaged as those lining the track. They, too, are waving, taking photos, and generally making the most of the carnival-like atmosphere.

The whole thing is all over in a matter of minutes as the large iron horse glides down the tracks ever so slowly. Within seconds, the umbrellas and shutters along the track are rolled back into position, trays of delicious produce, snacks, and cheesy souvenirs appear and the market banter quickly returns to as it was prior to the train’s arrival.

TRAVEL LOGISTICS

The first thing you need to decide on is whether you view the train from the train itself, on the ground, or a combination of both. It’s impossible to be in two places at one time, so trainspotters may be best-advised to catch the train to Maeklong, and then explore the town and market while waiting to photograph the next train entering the market. Either way, it takes some rather meticulous planning. My suggestion is to travel on the 9am train from Bangkok, photograph the next train entering the market at 2.30pm, and then take that return train back to Bangkok to make a day of the venture.

For those using public transport, take the BTS Skytrain to Wongwian Yai BTS Station (heading towards Bang Wa on the Silom or Blue Line). From here, walk west along Krung Thon Buri Road for 250 m and then turn right onto Samdet Phra Chao Tak Sin Road. Walk 300 m to the intersection of Charoen Rai Raid before turning left. The Wongwian Yai SRT station is less than 100 m on the right-hand side.

The train has become such a tourist attraction now that many organised sightseeing excursions from Bangkok take in the train market along with the popular Damnoen Saduak floating market, Amphawa, the famous Buddhist temple of Nakorn Pathom, and Wat Don Wai Floating Market in the late afternoon.

Some visitors may think the Maeklong Railway Market is one big tourist attraction, and perhaps at one level, it is. No doubt, it was once a very local market as Thais who could not afford a stall to sell their produce in the market settled upon the free outlet along the track. As the concept grew, entrepreneurial tour operators saw the uniqueness in the railway market and started bussing in the tourists. The fact that most tourists leave the market quite quickly after the train passes suggests that they are there for one thing only. Without over-analysing the situation, I thoroughly enjoyed myself and recommend it to anyone with a lazy day to spare on their next Thai holiday.

This train is an essential journey for those who love train travel, especially those journeys that are slightly wacky. Mainstream tourists will also enjoy the thrill of the action and the opportunity to take in one of Thailand’s craziest markets. For most, a visit to the railway will open one new amazing chapter on Thailand.

TRAVEL FILE

Getting There

Bangkok is well served by various airlines which fly into Suvarnabhumi Airport or Don Muang. Public transport connects to Wongwian Yai SRT Station, the Bangkok departure point for the Maeklong Railway Markettrain.

Train Timetable

Trains departing from Bangkok (Wongwian Yai Station) to Maeklong operate the following schedule of departure times and times when it enters the Maeklong Railway Market – 6.20am (8.30am), 9am (11.10am), 11.30am (2.30pm), and 3.30pm (5.40pm).

Contacts

Tourism Authority of Thailand (www.tourismthailand.org), State Railway of Thailand (www.railway.co.th), and Man in Seat 61 (www.seat61.com).

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