PFW SS27: At Loewe, It’s American Prep Meets Spanish Craft

If Jonathan Anderson made Loewe synonymous with intellectual experimentation and unexpected craft, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are beginning to establish a different proposition: clothes with personality that you can actually imagine living in.

For Spring/Summer 2027, the co-creative directors looked to the world they know best – American sportswear, New England summers, Ivy League dressing and the easy confidence of the East Coast – and filtered it through the extraordinary craftsmanship of Loewe. The result is American prep with a Spanish accent, where polos are turned backwards, boat shoes get brightly coloured laces, baseball caps are worn backwards and ttrench coats are finished with sculptural resin collars. Familiar staples are still recognisable, but something about them has been deliberately shifted.

The starting point is deeply personal. Both designers have strong connections to America’s Northeast, with Jack McCollough having spent formative years outside Boston and the pair owning a home in Massachusetts’ Berkshires. That New England sensibility of all things collegiate, outdoorsy, relaxed but polished became the collection’s wardrobe foundation.

Welcome to Loewe’s New England

If the American references give the collection its familiarity, Loewe’s Spanish identity gives it its soul. The house’s leather artisans reworked classic New England pieces in remarkably lightweight leather, including striped jackets and shirt dresses. Other looks used moulded plongé nappa to create abbreviated, sculptural dresses.

Few pieces capture the collection better than the humble polo. As one of the great symbols of American preppy dressing, the polo usually communicates a very specific kind of polished ease. Loewe flips that idea by styling it backwards, challenging the way it is supposed to be worn.

Sportswear also gets a distinctly Loewe makeover. Basketball jerseys, another unmistakably American reference,  are elongated and transformed into delicate slip dresses, with bead-fringed versions bringing movement and craft into the equation. Elsewhere, anoraks become silk pieces worn directly against the skin, while chiffon evening dresses borrow their bodices from basketball jerseys.

The designers described their proposition as “old world meets new world”. On one side is the New England wardrobe: pragmatic, easy, sporty and rooted in everyday dressing. On the other is Loewe’s Spanish heritage: leather craftsmanship, decorative detail, sensuality and a deep relationship with artisanal technique.

Even the colour palette plays with that tension. Strong primary colours of orange, red, blue, green and pink  bring an almost graphic American sportswear quality, while intricate floral embroidery and references to Spanish Baroque bring a richer, more decorative sensibility. It feels less like two cultures competing and more like two visual languages having a conversation.

For all its casualness, this is still unmistakably Loewe. The collection’s most spectacular moments come through the house’s ability to turn craftsmanship into something unexpected. There are leather garments that look almost like ordinary sportswear until you realise what they are made from. There are bead-fringed pieces that move like liquid. There is intricate three-dimensional floral embroidery, including a tangerine shift covered in exuberant blooms.