A Chat with Meriam Alfonso, Founder of Kayra

We caught up with Meriam Alfonso, founder and owner of Kayra, for a chat about her knack for leadership in a restaurant and the expansion of her brand. 

Anyone who values flavour with a kick and consistency would know Kayra. A top choice for many when it comes to soulful Keralan cuisine, the restaurant is powered by owner Meriam Alfonso alongside Chef Sabeel and their team. Its  first-ever branch opened its doors in 2016, but according to Alfonso, its story started long before that. “It began much earlier — as a quiet pull in my spirit, shaped by memories, spices, and stories passed down through generations in my family,” shares Alfonso. “The restaurant was simply the moment when that pull became an actual space and I had to gather the courage to do so.” 

Over the last nine years, Kayra has become a neighborhood favourite in Bangsar, even expanding its reach into Bukit Bintang with the opening of Coast by Kayra. Another milestone was also achieved this year with the launch of its very own line of sauces for home cooking, called the Kayra Cooking Series. As the Kayra name expands its reach, the fanbase grows and rightfully so! We are personal fans of the restaurant and that’s exactly why we sat down with Alfonso to get the lowdown on how she built a brand that has become more than just a restaurant. 

Were you always in the business of food?

Not at all, at least not professionally. I was trained in law, and for years, I walked the path that many first-generation daughters do, the one of responsibility, security, and doing what’s expected. But food was always there, like a second heartbeat. It was how I made sense of my connection with my roots, growing up in the hustle and bustle of my grandparents’ humble restaurant Kerala in Johor Bahru, which fed the community with resilience and flavour. Essentially, I grew up with flavours that I don’t second guess. So, you could say, I couldn’t ignore the calling.

Being in the food industry seems to have come so naturally to you. What do you think has nurtured your inherent finesse around food?

It comes from growing up in it. My grandparents’ restaurant, watching my family cook intuitively, run and manage a fast-paced restaurant when I was growing up – food was always at the centre of everything in the family. Over time, I developed my own instincts, not just for flavour, but also in hospitality, that extra touch and warmth that makes people feel taken care of.

How did Kayra get its beginnings?

Kayra was born out of a hunger, not just for good Keralan food, but for a deeper connection with my identity, memory and heritage. At the time, there wasn’t a single restaurant in Kuala Lumpur that truly celebrated the breadth and soul of Keralan cuisine in a modern way. I wanted to create a space that honoured tradition, while allowing it to evolve. 

So, we began as a small team with a lot of heart and a fire in the kitchen. Chef Sabeel, AKA Chef Sal, was there when we first opened our doors. Every dish was built from our own lived memories—mine, Chef Sal’s, my mother’s, and my grandmother’s. We refined recipes, honoured the ingredients, and built every plate to tell a story. And somehow, that story resonated with our crowd.

When you started Kayra, what was a goal that you had for yourself and the restaurant?

I wanted to create a space that honoured Kerala’s culinary roots, but presented it with a modern flair and confidence in what we are doing. The goal was to elevate South Indian food in a way that felt modern, honest, and deeply Malaysian at the same time. I wanted it to be something that would make people rethink what Keralan cuisine could be, combined with my favourite thing growing up: communal dining.

What has been the most influential driving force that keeps you and Kayra going today?

A deep belief in what we’re building. I know the cuisine, the story, and the work matters—and that gives me the stamina to keep pushing. Even through tough seasons, I’m driven by the responsibility to grow something meaningful and lasting, to keep the generations before me alive in what we do today.

Who has been a constant influential figure in your career?

My mother and her sisters. Their strength, discipline, and quiet pride in the way they cooked and brought food to the table, not only in the restaurant but at home. That’s stayed with me.

When did you realize that Kayra was a place that your diners actually loved and you could see it working in the long-run?

When guests started returning with their families, introducing us to others, and making us part of their daily, weekly routines and milestones — that’s when I knew we weren’t just a restaurant, we were a part of their lives.

What made you want to make the move over to the Kayra Cooking Series pastes?

I wanted to give people a way to experience Kayra at home. We’ve spent years perfecting our recipes. Now, the pastes allow us to share them with more people, more often, in a way that’s accessible but still true to who we are. It’s about legacy and scaling with integrity.

How would you like to see people use your pastes and curries in their homes? 

Any way that fits their life: weeknight dinners, entertaining guests, or as thoughtful gifts. The idea is to make something convenient, but never compromising on flavour. We have worked hard to make sure that they taste like exactly what we serve in the restaurant, but at your convenience.

What is your vision for the Kayra Cooking Series?

To become the most trusted Kerala-inspired cooking line, first in Malaysia, then globally. I want it to live on supermarket shelves, in export markets, and in everyday kitchens. But most of all, I want people to trust it as something that truly delivers on taste and quality.

Kayra and Coast by Kayra have become known as two of the most consistent restaurants in KL. How do you keep this up?

We don’t chase trends. We focus on doing the basics exceptionally well and being creative from there. From training the team to refining the food, it’s about maintaining standards every day. Every small complaint whether service or kitchen is taken seriously and now it’s built into the culture of our restaurants. Every small win is celebrated, every small complaint is heard and we try to do better every day. No egos, just consistently trying day by day. That comes from the clarity and care we have as an ethos the team lives by.

What does this role of sharing Keralan cuisine day in and day out mean to you?

This isn’t just about me, it’s about those who came before me. I’m simply carrying forward a legacy that has been built over generations, rooted in memory and culture. When my grandparents started their restaurant in 1948, it was really a way for them, as immigrants, to connect with others from their home. So, anywhere you landed in Malaya, you would head to Kerala to connect and gain employment. With that, my role is to honour, preserve, and pass on this Keralan legacy through food that tells our story and stands the test of time.

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